EM · 03 — WORK
Selected work
All work  ·  Beyond the Vines

Helping a founder-led fashion brand enter eyewear.

From apparel to eyewear — without the brand having to build an eyewear department, manage five suppliers, or learn the category from scratch.

Beyond the Vines tortoiseshell sunglass with metallic inner rim.
Tortoiseshell sunglass with metallic inner rim · Beyond the Vines first collection. Photo · Emsley studio
Section · i — The brief

A strong brand, an established audience, no eyewear experience.

A founder-led fashion label approached us to launch their first eyewear collection. They had a clear visual identity, a loyal customer base, and the sense — backed up by repeated customer requests — that their audience would buy eyewear under their brand.

What they didn't have was an eyewear team, a relationship with a factory, or any experience navigating lenses, QC, packaging or supplier coordination.

Section · ii — The real problem

The biggest challenge wasn't design. It was uncertainty.

The founder wasn't worried about how the frames would look. They were worried about everything around the frames:

  • Unknown factories on the other side of the world.
  • Inconsistent quality from unit to unit.
  • A packaging system that wouldn't match the rest of the brand.
  • Five suppliers moving on five different timelines.
  • A finished product that might quietly feel "off-brand" — and damage how customers thought of the label.

They didn't want a catalog product with their logo printed on it. They wanted a collection that felt like it had always belonged.

Acetate being machined into frame fronts.
A frame held in a wooden sampling fixture.
Acetate fronts being machined; a first sample held in fixture for fit and weight evaluation.
Section · iii — Why we were the right fit

Retail experience, one point of contact, design translation.

Retail experience

Our team operates an optical retail business. That gave the founder confidence that we weren't only thinking about how the frames would leave the factory — we were thinking about how they would be worn, returned, repaired and re-bought.

A single point of contact

Instead of managing a frame factory, a lens lab, a case maker, a packaging vendor and a freight forwarder, the brand worked through one team. Decisions that would normally take a week of email threads were resolved in a single conversation.

Design translation

The founder had a clear aesthetic direction. Our role was to translate it — into silhouettes that could be manufactured cleanly, materials that aged well, and hardware that didn't fight the rest of the design.

"Our customers had been asking us for eyewear for years. What we were missing wasn't demand — it was someone who could build it the way we would have built it ourselves."
Founder · Beyond the Vines
Section · iv — How the work ran

How the project actually ran.

Discovery & direction

The first weeks were brand immersion — going through existing collections, retail spaces, customer feedback and references with the brand's design team. We came back with a written direction, technical drawings and a shortlist of silhouettes.

Sampling & iteration

Three rounds of physical samples. We refined fit, weight, colour and hinge feel. One frame was dropped during sampling — it wasn't resolving cleanly, and forcing it would have weakened the collection. The line went to production with three frames instead of four. Logo work was blind-debossed rather than printed, with a silver fill reserved for the one transparent frame where deboss alone disappeared.

Packaging integration

Case, cloth and outer box were developed and sourced in parallel with the frames. The aluminium case was engraved rather than printed, and the interior fabric colours were selected by the brand's own design team against their existing collection — a small detail that did more for the unboxing than any printed insert could have.

Production & QC

Frames were produced under our oversight and inspected one by one. During final inspection we weren't satisfied with a small aesthetic detail on part of the run. We held those units back for two weeks to have them rectified — and moved the affected shipment to express air freight, at our cost, so the launch date didn't move.

Delivery

Product arrived retail-ready — fully packaged, individually quality-checked, and launched across six markets at once: Singapore, Japan, Thailand, China, the Philippines and Indonesia.

The project stayed coherent from concept to retail.

  • Three frames and a complete packaging system — case, cloth, box — from technical drawings to retail floor
  • A simultaneous launch across six markets
  • Manufacturing constraints resolved during sampling, before tooling was committed
  • Design intent preserved through production — one team coordinating factory, lenses, case, cloth, box and freight
Beyond the Vines packaging system: brushed aluminium case, blue velvet cloth, and presentation box.
Beyond the Vines packaging system — engraved aluminium case with interior fabric selected by the brand's design team, microfiber cloth, and presentation box.
Section · v — What we learned

The hesitation is rarely about demand.

Design-led brands hesitate to enter eyewear — or to rebuild a line that has drifted off-brand — and the hesitation is almost always about trust, uncertainty, and the fear of fragmenting their attention across a category they don't yet understand. Once those concerns are addressed — with a clear process, one team, and visible work — the rest tends to follow.

This project shaped how we approach every engagement since. The goal is not to manufacture frames. It is to help a brand enter eyewear thoughtfully — or rework what they already have — without needing to become eyewear experts themselves.

If this sounds like you

If your brand has been considering eyewear, we would be happy to share thoughts.

A first conversation. No deck, no pitch — just a quick read on whether the category makes sense for you.

See the full process →